How to sew a pocket in a french seam

How to sew a pocket in a french seam

You can sew a fully enclosed pocket in a french seam. Start by cutting your pocket openings with an extra 1/4” seam allowance.

Sew pockets to skirt panels

With wrong sides together, sew each pocket 1/8” away from raw edge.

sew-pocket-french-seam pocket 282

Enclose pocket opening in a french seam

Press up pocket. Wrap the pocket around the skirt edge. This way the skirt edge isn’t distorted and lays flat. Sew the pocket “in the ditch” to enclose the raw edge.

pocket 294 pocket 315 pocket 335 pocket 403

Sew first part of french seam

Press open pocket on both skirt pieces. With wrong sides together, sew 1/4” away from the top of the skirt, around the pocket edge, down to the end of the skirt. Turn pocket inside out. Press.

pocket 417 pocket 470 pocket 503 pocket 518

Enclose and finish french seam

Press skirt pieces right sides together. Sew 1/4” (or 3/8” for a 5/8” seam) away from the top of the skirt, around the pocket edge, down to the end of the skirt. Open skirt and press. You now have a fully enclosed pocket and skirt seam.

pocket 579 pocket 603 pocket 676

Comments
Butterfly
This is awesome! I would never have figured that out for myself. Thank you so much.

Artemisia Moltabocca
You're welcome! I'm happy you find it useful Butterfly. :)

Cynthia
Genius, I'm going to try this on my next dress. I literally woke up at 4:30 in the morning trying to figure this out. I must have been having sewing construction nightmares.

Artemisia
There, there Cynthia. It will be alright. Glad I could help. :)

Bette
Just used this technique in a dress, and it worked so well! Thank you!

Artemisia Moltabocca
Yay! Glad I could help. *happydance*

foxieluv
I am looking for instructions on how to make a hidden opening in a pocket as closure for skirts or pants without having to use a zipper or buttons, I believe it is a French method. I seen it used on a very expensive pair of women trousers.

e
I appreciate the tip--and glad to know I am not the only one having sewing construction nightmares.

And foxieluv, I believe the first edition of "Couture Sewing Techniques" by Claire Shaeffer/Taunton Press has a pocket demonstrated like that.